In the world it is well known that only the Russian mountaineers are ready to go to the rescue, in spite of everything: pytnye and knowledgeable mountaineers from abroad teach our language and go to challenging routes with only Russian

The tragedy, taken as a basis for the plot of a Hollywood film, “Everest”, which now collects cash in cinemas, unfolding in front of Krasnoyarsk. The famous mountaineer, head coach mountaineering Krasnoyarsk Krai Nikolai Zakharov ascended to the summit at a time when there were killed Scott Fisher, Rob Hall and members of their teams. He and his wife told the “Prospekt Mira” irresponsibility of extreme tourism, dumps noses and saved about why climbers all over the world are taught the Russian language.

- This was the year when the highest peak of the world began to develop a commercial climbing, - says Nikolay Zakharov. - I will not say it’s bad: there is money - why not relax in the mountains? But not on this eight-like Everest. I myself twice to climb, and I know how hard it is: oxygen at the very top man receives three times less than you need, icy wind, the temperature drops to minus 60 degrees. Few hesitated, not just reflexes - and everything froze himself or peremerzla valves in the cylinders and you’re without air. In principle, all this was the cause of the tragedy on a slope, in May 1996.

The two groups were paid by tourists in bad weather just at the top. Some people have already managed to reach the peak and down when they covered the avalanche. Rob Hall - the head of one of the teams - gave up the slack, and agreed to drag one of the tourists (it was not much, but go he almost could not); although it was clear that the time on the descent almost gone. Both were killed.

- I had a case, virtually the same story with the client Rob - says Zakharov. - During the first ascent of the companions they had reached the summit and turned back, and I was some 20 meters. Imagine: 20 meters - and I for the first time on Everest! But if I go, they would have to wait for me - and the weather changed. And I decided to turn back.

Everest has two routes: from Nepal, through the South Col (classic, about which the film was shot) and through the north ridge from Tibet. When he killed Scott, Rob and their people, Zakharov with a group of tourists for the first time Krasnoyarsk ascent from the north-east wall: there is no one before them did not go.

- We missed just a few days May 10, went down to camp to rest, to then climb to the top. A 15th moved up and hit the exact same weather. We had very bad. Oxygen is ended, we spent three nights at an altitude of 8300 meters - is very much of the energy we just left. Last night did not sleep: everything got frozen even in a sleeping bag. But we were prepared for us it was not an extreme situation, and the working time. We had everything correctly assess, respond to and survive. About what happened with the American teams, we found out after returning.

7 October 2015

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